136 SIDELINES FEBRUARY 2014
FOR HORSE PEOPLE • ABOUT HORSE PEOPLE
FOR HORSE PEOPLE • ABOUT HORSE PEOPLE
SIDELINES JUNE 2012 3
so well camouflaged! Lots of
elevations, hills, “kopje” (stone
outcroppings) – on a clear
day you can see, well, almost
forever.
In addition to the wildlife and
spectacular scenery, I enjoyed
horsey landscapes and got to
meet some of Kenya’s sturdy
and hardy Thoroughbreds,
Thoroughbred-crosses and
ponies. However, even in
the “suburbs,” livestock must
be protected from big cat
predation. At night they are kept
in stables or bomas (fenced
stockades). Human guards
might be posted, and special
motion lights have proven
effective in the ongoing conflict
between big cats and domestic
livestock, the measure of local
people’s wealth.
Tamsin arranged for me to
attend the Thoroughbred sales
on Saturday and Sunday’s
racing at Ngong Racecourse, in
Karen, southwest of Nairobi. I
enjoyed sharing in the Kenyans’
enthusiasm and passion for
horses. She introduced me to Mary Binks, Thoroughbred owner-
breeder, who in 1972 moved to Nairobi from New Jersey. In
1996 Mary became the first female member of the Jockey Club
of Kenya. A lifelong equestrian, she is active in racing and also
chairs FEI Region IX (seven African countries). Their calendar
includes clinics and competitions in dressage, show jumping and
eventing.
While in the suburb of Karen I spent time with Tamsin and
Chris Brennan’s teenaged daughter Kyela, an avid equestrian
who takes weekly lessons, attends Pony Club in Nairobi and
loves going for trail rides and competing cross-country. Kyela
is working with Captain, her young horse, and she still has her
wonderful first pony (sadly outgrown), Molo’s Moon. It was great
fun talking horses with Kyela.
After racing at Ngong, I flew to Loisaba where I was met by
Robert and Gus, Samburu warrior game guides from Sabuk
Lodge: super nice, extremely knowledgeable about fauna and
flora. For 20 years Sabuk has bred and trained camels for riding
treks. I loved it: different, but similar. The lodge overlooks the
Ewaso Nyeri, the river lulled me to sleep at night. The month
after my visit, co-owner Verity Williams, famous for being one
of the first female safari guides, added horse treks to Sabuk’s
activities. My plan, when I return: ride a horse and fly camp
overnight in the bush. I wept when I left.
Driving to Kipalo with Tamsin was extremely exciting, exotic
and fun. I met Mutiso and his wife Dorcas. Mutiso heads and
trains the anti-poaching patrols. They risk their lives to protect
the elephants. Unfortunately, I was still in workaholic mode: live
and learn. Next time I will explore on foot with game guides in
the Mbulia Conservancy, bordering Tsavo West, one of Kenya’s
National Parks.
I spent five days by myself with Maasai warriors at Speke’s
Camp in the Maasai Mara and at Jan’s Camp in the Loitas.
The Maasai were great. Lekopien, field manager and chief
game guide, was outstanding company. His eyes never missed
anything. He even spotted a leopard feasting on impala in a tree.
We watched a pride of lions hunting at sunset on my last night in
the Mara. It was amazing. From the Mara, Lekopien and I drove
cross-country to Jan’s Camp in the Loitas, a hiker’s paradise
among gorgeous hills.
My last stop was Delta Dunes, a lovely lodge accessible only
by boat, located where the Tana River meets the Indian Ocean.
Miles of beach, no other people besides guests and staff, wildlife
and views that lift your spirit: as a getaway, it was unique, totally
off the beaten track and magical.
My safari was great fun and empowering. Kenya might be
wild, but I felt totally safe traveling mostly alone. Everywhere
people were friendly, polite and helpful. I wept each time at
each kwaheri, rafiki (farewell, friend). Some words of wisdom
and advice: You will never eat better food. Don’t use flash to
photograph the wildlife. Don’t take work with you. Relax. Enjoy.
Get involved in the community: converse, garden, teach what
you know. Share what you can with the local people. Pack with a
purpose. Be grateful for your blessings. Protect the wildlife. Start
planning your return.
About the writer: Sidelines’ Lauren R. Giannini is an award-
winning “wordsmith” specializing in stories and photos about the
equestrian world. Crazy about horses her entire life, she lives in
the horse and hunt country of Virginia. Lauren’s motto is “write,
ride - not necessarily in that order!”
Southwest of Nairobi, the “suburban” community known
as Karen: ponies and horses graze in fields behind
palisade fences and little girls ride along the lanes.
